Yehi'am Fortress National Park
Yehi’am Fortress is more than just the ruins of another old fortress and there are good reasons for visiting it. Its history is of interest, including up to the modern period. Its commanding location in the Upper Galilee provides wonderful views. And it provides a good opportunity for discussing the Bedouin Sheikh Daher al-Omar who gained control over the Galilee in the 18th century.
Remains of a Roman fort and then Byzantine farm or monastery have been found near the main building. The main building began as a Crusader fortified farm during the Kingdom of Jerusalem, and was called Judin by the Arabs. The fortress was significantly strengthened in 1208 after the Third Crusade when the German Order of Teutonic Knights moved here and to nearby Montfort from Acre. Their castle at Montfort was their headquarters. Both fortresses were conquered and left in ruins by the Mamluk Sultan Baybars.
Fast forward to 1738 when this fortress was taken over by the Bedouin strongman Daher al-Omar, and was rebuilt as one of a string of protective strongholds. It was eventually destroyed by al-Jazzar.
This fortress was also important during the 1948 War of Independence. The kibbutz of Yehi’am was isolated in this part of the Western Galilee and surrounded by Arab villages. The old fortress again became a military stronghold and observation point, this time for the kibbutz. A convoy was sent to bring supplies and reinforcements to the kibbutz but never reached Yehi’am. It was attacked near Kabri and 47 Haganah fighters and others were killed. Only later was the Western Galilee liberated.
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Directions: Enter “Yehiam Fortress” into Waze.
Admission. This is a site of the Israel Nature and Parks Authority. There is an admission charge. Summer hours are Sunday to Thursday and Saturday 8.00 AM to 5.00 PM and Friday and holiday eves to 4.00 PM. During the winter, closing is one hour earlier. Entrance to the park closes one hour before the cited closing time. There is a partially shaded picnic area with picnic tables. Their phone number is 04 827 6601. This is their website.
Public transport: There is a regular bus from Tzomet Nahariya, and this stops very close to the fortress.
Touring the fortress:
From the wall near the entrance gate, one can appreciate the difference in building between the Crusaders and Daher. The lower rows are Crusader ashlars, while above this are the stone building blocks of Daher.
Enter the ruins through the Fortress Gate by Daher. The gate is protected by a strong, semicircular tower.
Make your way to the Crusader Tower, which is one of two towers that existed in the Crusader fortress. Steps lead up to the top of the tower, from where there is a lookout balcony. The combined Jewish and Arab towns of Ma’a lot and Tarshiha can be clearly seen to the south.
The path continues to the eastern part of the fortress, passing between the communication trenches and defense positions of Kibbutz Yehi’am from the time of the War of Independence.
The Reception hall is a large, pillared hall with 15 piers, intended as the base for the fortress complex above it. It was probably used as a storeroom during the Ottoman period. The first members of Kibbutz Yehi’am lived in this hall before moving to their permanent settlement.
The Western observation terrace is a spacious area that served in the past as the floor for many rooms that no longer exist. From the terrace is a breathtaking view and there are signs for help with identification. The coastline can be seen from Rosh Hanikra to Haifa Bay. On the southern side are the remains of a small bathhouse, apparently used by the commander of the fortress. Water was brought up in jars from the cistern in the fortress, and poured into a channel that carried it to the bathhouse.
The “Mushroom Hall” was used by the members of Kibbutz Yehi’am for growing mushrooms in the 1950s, and today is used for screening a film about the kibbutz during the War of Independence.
The autonomous rule of Daher al-Omar
The Bedouin chieftain Zahir al-Umar, otherwise known as Daher al-Omar, was one of the most important local rulers of 18th century Palestine. He worked initially as a tax collector for the Ottoman authorities, and accumulated enough power and influence to become the autonomous governor of the Galilee and northern Palestine. He greatly contributed to the development of Tiberias, Acre, Nazareth and Haifa and to the prosperity of this part of the country.
Daher’s initial base was Tiberias, and he strengthened the town and made it his center of power. He was appreciative of the advantages of having Jews in his kingdom and he provided financial incentives for Jews to settle and engage in commerce in his kingdom and also enacted laws to safeguard their safety. He encouraged Rabbi Chayim Abulafia to bring his community from Smyrna in Western Turkey to Tiberias. The Jewish quarter was rebuilt, a new synagogue constructed, and the community flourished together with the city.
He next turned his attention to Acre, which he made his principal capital. He rebuilt and fortified Acre, encouraged immigration and promoted trade. Acre became an important commercial center, particularly because of its rapidly expanding cotton trade with European merchants.
Over his half-century of rule, he also developed Haifa, Nazareth and other settlements, all of which contributed to the economic growth of northern Palestine.
However, over time his independence and foreign alliances were seen as a threat by the Ottoman authorities and they sent a fleet and army to blockade and attack him in Acre. Despite his age, he was now 85, he continued to resist. He eventually decided to escape from Acre, but was pursued by Ottoman forces who caught up with him and beheaded him.
Ahmad al-Jazzar was part of the Ottoman land force sent against Daher. After Daher's death, al-Jazzar became the person responsible for finishing off Daher’s dynasty. The Ottomans appointed him governor/administrator of Acre, and he made Acre his base. Daher's sons still controlled a network of fortified places in the Galilee and all would eventually come under Ottoman/al-Jazzar control. Al-Jazzar's objective was not merely to occupy these fortresses, but to make them unusable, so that Daher's family could never again be able to use them as bases of rebellion. The archaeological evidence supports al-Jazzar with deliberately damaging the fortress's great platform and knocking down its corners, rendering the complex militarily ineffective.
The lower three rows of this wall are Crusader, while the upper layers are from the time of Dahar.
Entering the Crusader tower
The Pillared Hall
Another view of the castle
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