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The Allawite town of Ghajar

The town of Ghajar was formerly Syrian but is now Israeli. The Lebanese border runs through the middle of town, although everyone ignores it. Ghajar was closed off by the Israeli miliary, except to its inhabitants, but in September 2022 the Israel Defense Forces lifted entry restrictions and allowed visitors to enter the town without special permission for the first time in 22 years. This resulted in many Jewish and Muslim tourists. It is the only Alawite town in Israel and is unique religiously, politically, culinary-wise and aesthetically.

Directions: Enter “Ghazar” into Waze. There is street parking.  

Public transport: There is a bus service between Kiryat Shemona and Ghazar.

Statute and fountain at Ghajar.jpeg

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There are many special things about this town. It has about 2,700 inhabitants. It is very closely knit and people rarely leave to live elsewhere. The women dress modestly with dresses and skirts but do not cover their hair. The people are well integrated into Israeli society. The community places a high premium on education and there are many doctors living in the community, and even professors who work in Israel. The youth do not serve in the Israeli army but do volunteer for national service. The citizens are relatively well off and you will see many large houses. Note the pastel-hued exteriors of some of the houses, just as one sees in parts of Europe. Some buildings, especially in the center of town, display an Islamic architectural style. The town is clean and nicely laid out with fountains, statues and pretty flowers. So please leave it exactly as you found it.

 

Entry to the town is restricted from 8.00 p.m. to 8.00 a.m. There is no intention of opening zimmerim (bed and breakfast guestrooms) or hotels.

 

What to do here? First head towards the promenade. Below the promenade is Lebanon and the Hasbani River. Listen carefully and you can hear the bubbling river. The Hasbani River becomes the Snir Stream in Israel. There are stalls along the promenade for the purchase of drinks and snacks. The town prides itself on its pot-brewed coffee rather than machine-brewed. It also has its own culinary specialties. Be sure to make your way to the very beautiful Peace Garden. Also note the statues at the street intersections and the architecture of the buildings in the center of town.

Hasbani Valley seen from Ghajar.jpeg
Peace garden at Ghajar

View of he Hasbani Valley from the Promenade

The Peace Garden contains religious symbols from different faiths

For the two overviews"Surviving between the cracks" and "Ghajar and its Allawite faith"— see my book "The North of Israel for Everyone: The Best Family Activities, Hikes and Historic Sites."

Statue of St George and the dragon at Ghajar.jpeg

Statue of St. George slaying the dragon in the center of town.

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