A CIRCULAR WALK THROUGH THE OLD CITY OF SAFED

 

Walking through the Old City of Safed using road names for direction can be tricky, since there are a lot of unnamed alleyways. For this reason, I often talk about numbered turnings. However, if you lose your way, it should not be difficult to find your location on Google Maps.

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Our first stop is the Sephardi HaAri Synagogue (A):

 

• Assuming you are parked on Keren Hayesod, walk to the very end of the street (heading in the direction of the center of town). Otherwise, make your way to this street. At the end of the cul de sac, on your left, is a short tunnel that leads to a series of steps that descend past the Breslov Synagogue to Ha’Ari St. The first building on your right is the Ari Sephardi Synagogue (A). Alternatively, enter “Ari Sephardic Synagogue” into Google Maps. The synagogue is usually open most of the day.

 

This is the oldest building in Safed. It already existed 300 years before Rabbi Yitzchak Luria arrived in Safed and spent time here. None of the synagogues we will be visiting are the original building, including this one, since all were completely or partially destroyed by earthquakes. However, all are in the same location as their original building and their overall structure is similar, although their interiors would probably have been different. This building was renovated by a philanthropist three years after the earthquake of 1837. 

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Although now in a relatively lower part of the Old City, this synagogue was once in the heart of the Jewish Quarter, being one of three synagogues in this location. Safed’s Jewish Quarter subsequently developed further up the hill. Its congregation was North African Jews. The synagogue was dedicated to the prophet Eliyahu Hanavi (Elijah the Prophet), but was renamed in the Ari’s memory some years after his death. It overlooks Mount Meron and the tomb of Rabbi Shimon bar Yochai at Meron. There is a small cave opening on the eastern wall of the synagogue and legend holds that the Ari studied Torah and kabbalah in this cave together with Elijah the Prophet. Note the three arks for the Torah scrolls (most synagogues have only one ark).

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The Ari's mikvah (B) and tomb (C)

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• Consider visiting the Ari’s mikvah (ritual bath) (B) and also his tomb in the cemetery (C). Exit from the HaAri Synagogue and turn left. Continue along HaAri St until you reach the mikvah. It is possible that the Ari used this mikva. At the very least, according to tradition, he was purified here before his burial. If you are male, consider an immersion (this mikvah is for males only). It is an experience, especially if you have never been in a mikvah before. You will certainly get a physical jolt, and it may even jolt you spiritually! You will be completely naked and the spring water is really cold.

 

• Return along HaAri St, and opposite the staircase on which you came down on take the path down to the cemetery. Here you will see the tombs of the Ari, Rabbi Moshe Cordovero and Rabbi Shlomo Al-Kabetz. They are not far from the mikvah and are adjoining each other under the first covered area on your left.

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Rabbi Shlomo Al-Kabetz is the author of the popular poem Lecho dodi, which is sung in the synagogue on Friday night. If you examine its translation, you will notice that other than its first two verses and its refrain, this hymn makes no further mention of the Sabbath, but only the future messianic redemption. This fits in well with the expectations of the rabbinic leaders of 16th century Safed.

 

Beit HaMeiri (HaMeiri House Museum) (D):

 

• Go back up the staircase from Ha’Ari St. and turn right onto Keren Hayesod St. The Beit HaMeiri (D) at 158 Keren Hayesod St. may be worth a visit. It is the first building on your left after the cul de sac. Alternatively, enter “Beit Hameiri” into Google Maps and click on “Beit Hameiri, Keren ha-Yesod Street, Safed.”

 

This museum documents Jewish life in Safed over the last 200 years through nine exhibits. The museum is the work of one person Yehezkel Ha’Meiri. He did not live in this building, but purchased it for a museum. There is no brochure, but they do have a sheet in English explaining the exhibits. The rooms at street level are over 400 years old. The top level would have been the living quarters of the people who once lived here and the lower levels their cellars (now converted into exhibition halls). The museum is open 8.30 a.m. to 2.30 p.m. from Monday to Thursday and is closed Friday, Shabbat and Sunday. The phone number is 04-692 1939. Click here for their website.  

 

The Meiri Lookout (E) and the stairway Ma’alot Oley HaGardom:

 

• Continue along Keren Hayesod St. until you come to the stairway Ma’alot Oley HaGardom, which is the first turning on the left. Opposite the stairway on the other side of the road is the lookout Mitzpe Meiri (Meiri Lookout) (E), named after Yehezkel Ha'Meiri (1934-1984) who developed the Beit HeMeiri Museum.

 

On a sign is a summary of Yehezkel's professional life and why this secular Jew spent 30 years engaged in this project. Another useful sign identifies the view that can be seen from this observation area. Mount Meron is the highest peak on your far right.

The long staircase Ma’alot Oley HaGardom was the dividing line between the Jewish and Arab communities of Safed prior to the 1948 War of Independence. During the war, the Arab population fled and its houses were taken over by immigrants and artisans. The artists of Safed were very influential in the development of Israeli art, and artists such as Moshe Castell and Yitzchak Frenkel developed international reputations.

 

General Exhibition (F) in the Artists Quarter:

 

• Take the first turning on the right as you go up the stairway. There is a blue sign Artists Colony at its entrance. A good starting place for appreciating this section of the Old City is the General Exhibition (F) in a former mosque. You will soon see it ahead of you.

 

The founding artists of Safed formed an Artists Colony cooperative and took over this abandoned mosque for exhibiting their works. Many of the artists of Safed continue to exhibit here even if they have galleries elsewhere. All the works displayed are for sale. Some have the price marked on their work, while others do not and you will have to ask. Close to the main gallery are workshops used by up-and-coming artists, some cafes and a restroom (for which you may need to ask for the key in the main gallery). Opening hours for the General Exhibition are Sunday to Thursday 10.00 a.m. to 5.00 pm and 6.00 p.m. in the summer, and Friday and Saturday 10.00 a.m. to 2.00 p.m. There is no admission charge.

 

• You may wish to wander around the Artist Quarter. Otherwise, retrace your steps, cross Maalot Oley HaGardom and continue along this covered street, which is Gallery Avenue. It contains art galleries and tourist stores. Two synagogues on this street are of interest.

 

The Rav Yosef Caro Synagogue (G):

 

• A short distance past the second turning on the left from the stairway is the Rav Yosef Caro Synagogue (G). There is an overhead sign on Gallery Avenue. Alternatively, enter “Rabi Joseph Karo” into Google maps. The synagogue is open from early morning until late at night.

 

This building was originally constructed in the 16th century and was used as a house of learning and rabbinical court rather than as a synagogue. Only recently has it been functioning as a house of prayer. As the Chief Rabbi of Safed, Rav Caro would have taught and adjudicated here. It was destroyed and rebuilt following the earthquakes of 1759 and 1837. Its last rebuilding was in 1839 by an Italian scholar and philanthropist Rabbi Yitzchak Goyatos, who dedicated himself to rebuilding many of the destroyed synagogues of Safed. Inside the synagogue and close to its entrance is a map on the wall showing Rav Caro’s travels from Spain prior to arriving in Safed. The marble floors are from Italy. The bima or central elevated prayer area is larger than it was previously, being replaced about 40 years ago. 

 

• Beneath the synagogue is Rav Yosef Caro’s residence where he lived and completed his writings. You can walk around the building to see its entrance. It functions as a study hall for Torah study and is usually locked.

 

The Abuhav Synagogue (H):

 

• Just after the covering over Gallery Avenue comes to an end, you will see the woman’s entrance to the Abuhav Synagogue (H) on your left. Guys can go down the next alley on the left that has a sign to Abuhav Winery. Another sign on the left on this alley indicates the direction to the synagogue. Alternatively, enter “Abuhav Synagogue” into Google maps.

 

Rabbi Yitzhak Abuhav was a well-known kabbalist and community leader from Spain who never actually lived in Safed. However, his disciple Rabbi Yaacov Beirav and others brought his Sefer Torah (scroll of the law) to Safed. This Sefer Torah is the oldest in Safed and is still used on special occasions. The synagogue is originally from the 1500s and was rebuilt after the earthquake of 1759. The Torah was undamaged during the earthquake. The synagogue has three arks and the one on the right contains the scroll penned by Rabbi Abuhav. The decorative interior of the synagogue has pictures of musical instruments used in the Temple, the signs of the tribes of Israel, and four crowns – the crowns of Torah, priesthood, royalty, and impending redemption. There are usually only three crowns – the one related to impending redemption is unique to Safed. There are restrooms just outside the synagogue.

 

Livnot U’Lehibanot (I):

 

• The institute of Livnot U’Lehibanot (I) also provides tourist information and is located on the continuation of Gallery Avenue at 17 Alkabetz, just after the previously mentioned turning on the left. 

 

Livnot U’Lehibnot (I) is a non-affiliated educational institute that provides young adults with little or no previous Jewish education the opportunity to connect to their Jewish heritage on their own terms, including experiential education, hiking, and volunteering. During excavation of their premises, underground rooms, a communal area and a mikvah were discovered from the 16th century. This discovery was not surprising since the houses of Safed were built on top of the ruins of previous buildings. You can view their findings as part of an underground tour of this now National Heritage site. They also sell a very useful and recommended map of the Old City.

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The Ashkenazi HaAri Synagogue (J) and Safed Candles (K):

 

• Turn onto the staircase on the right after Livnot U’Lehibanot. The synagogue is on your left as you climb the stairway. Alternatively, enter “Ari Ashkenazi Synagogue” into Google Maps.

 

The Ashkenazi Ha'Ari Synagogue (J) was built by immigrants from Spain who had lived for a time in Greece. They were kabbalists and followers in the main of Rabbi Moshe Cordovero. The Ari joined their synagogue in 1570.

 

Outside this synagogue where now is a paved courtyard was once an open field where the Ari and his followers would gather on late Friday afternoon dressed in white to greet the Shabbat with prayers and singing. They faced to the west towards Meron and the tomb of Rashbi and awaited the setting of the sun. This was the time for the mystical betrothal of the Jewish people to the Sabbath. One of the songs they sang was lecho dodi composed by Rabbi Al-Kabetz, and it became very popular in Safed. Its recital as part of a new prayer service formulated in Safed, kabbalat Shabbat, spread to the rest of the Jewish world.

 

The synagogue became Ashkenazi in the 18th century when it was taken over by Hassidim from Europe and it then became known as the Ashkenazi Ha'Ari Synagogue. The synagogue was destroyed by the earthquake of 1837 but rebuilt 20 years later.

 

• For a less spiritual location, continue further along this street to Safed Candles (K).

 

There are no historic connotations to this store. It does, however, contain many interesting scenes and caricatures sculpted from bee’s wax and has become a popular tourist destination. The phone number is 04 682-2068.

 

Defender’s Square, or Kikar HaMeginim (L):

 

• Return to the stairway and continue up to the next intersection. At this intersection, go through the alleyway, and this will bring you to Defender’s Square or Kikar HaMeginim. Alternatively, enter “Kikar HaMeganim” into Google Maps. This is the central plaza of Safed’s Old City.

 

There are several fast-food type restaurants in the square and it is a popular hangout. It is named after the defenders of Safed during the War of Independence. Adjacent buildings were the headquarters of the Palmach.

 

Ma’alot Oley HaGardom and back to your car:

 

• Take the far-right Hatam Sofer St. and continue on this street until you come to the main stairway Ma’a lot Oley HaGardom. The original post office building is at the top of the stairway, including its searchlight. Turn to your right down the stairway to your car.

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• Alternatively, you may wish to go into town for its restaurants and cafes and/or to view the Davidka and Citadel. For the Davidka turn to the left from the stairway. On the other side of the road from the Davidka is a passageway to the ruins of the Citadel.

 

The Citadel is the highest point of this part of town. Safed developed around the fortresses that were built here, first a Crusader castle and then a Mamluke castle built on its ruins. This is why the streets of the Old City are arranged roughly in concentric circles. All that can be seen today close to the top of the hill are the ruins of some walls and an intact water cistern. At the summit are a memorial, a sign with information about the capture of this height and the rest of Safed during the War of Independence, and a small park. There are also wonderful views from the summit. There are restrooms towards the bottom of the staircase to the Citadel.